Global Rice News

Yadgar: The Unmistakable Aroma of Manchester’s Rice and Three

By Ophira Gottlieb

Step into Yadgar and you’ll be greeted with not one, but two “OPEN” signs – one on the door and one in the window. The Northern Quarter café might not have the most polished exterior, with its orange traffic cone that serves as decor, but don’t be fooled by appearances. Once you venture inside, you’ll discover a culinary gem – the uniquely Mancunian Rice and Three.

If you ask a Mancunian about famous canteens, they’ll likely have a lot to say about their favorite spot, or they might be completely clueless. The term “Rice and Three” refers to a South Asian restaurant style known as “Thali”, which is exclusively found in Manchester, most notably in the Northern Quarter.

Thali, meaning “large plate” in Hindi, is characterized by a large plate filled with rice, naan, and a variety of curries, yogurts, and daals. The Rice and Three is a simpler version where you choose three dishes from metal containers of curry and enjoy them alongside rice. The available dishes vary daily and typically cost between six and eight pounds.

While the history of Rice and Threes is not well-documented, it’s believed that This & That, a canteen tucked away on Soap Street in the Northern Quarter, was the pioneer. Established in 1984, This & That served the South Asian communities of Manchester, as well as the curious locals seeking new culinary experiences. The concept was simple – customers would point at the dishes and say “I’ll have some of this, some of that,” giving birth to the Rice and Three phenomenon.

To fully comprehend why Rice and Threes flourished exclusively in Manchester, we must look back to the decline of the cotton industry after World War II. With changes in working conditions, including 24-hour shifts, labor was outsourced, attracting migrant workers from Pakistan, Kashmir, and Bangladesh. South Asian communities thrived in the ’70s and ’80s, leading to the emergence of restaurants serving their cuisine in the Northern Quarter, an area previously dominated by warehouses.

These canteens provided quick and convenient service for workers on their lunch breaks. The food was pre-cooked, served instantly, and devoured swiftly. Even as Manchester’s South Asian communities evolved, the canteens continued to cater to their needs, resisting complete commodification.

One such canteen is Cafe Marhaba on Back Piccadilly. Established in 1992 by Nazir Ahmed, it served the growing Pakistani community in Manchester. Today, the café attracts a diverse customer base, including office workers and residents of nearby luxury apartments.

Abdul, Nazir’s son, grew up in Manchester and has witnessed the changes in the café and its community. He reflects on how they had to adapt to meet the evolving needs of their clientele, such as introducing card payments. Abdul believes that not embracing such changes would be foolish, especially as cash usage declines.

The COVID-19 pandemic hastened the move away from cash transactions, and Café Marhaba began offering delivery through platforms like Just Eat and Deliveroo. However, despite these adaptations, the café experienced a loss of social interaction that was previously a hallmark of the Rice and Three experience.

When asked about the shift in their customer base, Abdul explains that while the wholesalers were once predominantly Asian, the mix has become more diverse, with approximately 80% being Pakistani. Nevertheless, the Rice and Three tradition remains popular among customers, with Café Marhaba offering their unique take by serving it on pilau rice.

Discovering a New Favorite Spot

As I enter Cafe Marhaba, the only occupied table is filled with four Pakistani men who kindly clear the neighboring table for me. These young men, Shahroz, Rizwan, Sufian, and Danyal, are students studying for their MSC in Management. They stumbled upon Cafe Marhaba while searching for halal places to eat near their college. Unfamiliar with the concept of Rice and Three, they have never been to Yadgar or This & That, despite the sign bearing those words right across from them.

Shahroz and his friends are not tourists seeking the legendary canteens; they visit Cafe Marhaba because it meets their needs – affordable, halal Pakistani food served quickly. The success of the canteens lies in their ability to cater to the evolving South Asian communities while retaining their original purpose.

Abdul recommends trying the lamb dishes, and I choose lamb jalfrezi, potato keema, and chickpea. Served on a bed of white rice, generously sprinkled with coriander, the portions are substantial, satisfying the unspoken rules of the Manchester Rice and Three experience. The flavors explode on my taste buds, striking the perfect balance between spice and comfort.

Cafe Marhaba, much like its counterparts, has witnessed changes over the years, but its commitment to serving authentic Pakistani cuisine remains unwavering. As I leave with a satisfied stomach and a newfound appreciation for Manchester’s Rice and Three tradition, I can’t help but think that these canteens continue to play an essential role in the city’s diverse culinary landscape.

Boldly preserving their heritage while embracing modernization, these canteens are a testament to the enduring spirit of South Asian communities within Manchester.

Source: Manchester Mill